1:” Planting directly in the compost I linked should be fine.”
YES
2: “The humus rich product they got (recarb essence) may have more nutrition than the mulch compost. I could plant in either or mix the 2… maybe get a few bags of each and test through winter just to see the difference before buying the bulk amount.”
YES, BUT REMEMBER THE NUTRITION YOU APPLY/DERIVE FROM THE COMPOST IS TO PROMOTE SOIL BIOLOGY WHICH IN TURN FEEDS THE PLANT.
3:” No fertiliser needed as such, but I could use seaweed extract just for the initial growth help etc if I wanted to (wouldn’t hurt If i did use it)”
YES
4:” Plant everything* in trays first and let them establish and then once they are established (5-10cm tall plants) transfer from tray to the compost truck dumped out on ground.”
YES BUT NOTE *EXCEPTIONS IN MY PREVIOUS.
5:” Plant seeds about 2 per 50mm tray cup. I guess that is just incase 1 seed doesn’t germinate? Could even end up with both failing lol.”
YES, BUY /SAVE QUALITY FRESH SEED
“Regarding carrots… I read they should be planted directly in the ground because if you transplant them they will fork due to the roots.”
YES, AS A CHEAPLY AVAILABLE STAPLE , NOT WORTH MUCH TIME EITHER
“Now if I stick 1 seed per where I intend the carrot to grow… I could/will end up with many blank spots where the seed did not germinate. So if I just sprinkle the carrot seeds in a trench (the way you would parsley) – i could end up eith 3-5 or more seeds in one spot. If many of them do germinate… I read I need to thin them out… what does that mean? Do you just grab the carrot in the soil and push them appart (through the soil without pulling them out) or?”
YES, BUT I PLANT A PINCH (3-4 SEEDS) AT 50MM INTERVALS IN A DOUBLE ROW 50MM APART, AVOID THINNING TO AVOID DISTURBANCE.
2What would be the list of vegetables that should be planted directly where you want it to grow to avoid transplanting besides carrots?
” SEE PREVIOUS POST
“Last: Cardboard or newspaper… should I put this on the ground where i got grass and then stick compost on that or will 10-15cm thick compost be enough to kill it off anyway? Its not short grass, its some wild garbage that grows in sharp long stick like grass straw that clumps up in spots, so you go no grass then a clump of this straw like stuff which has a very hard root/ball, when you try to run mower over it you have to push real hard to get it to climb over. Im not sure if that would die off or just grow straight through the compost….”
I MOW OFF PRIOR TO CARDBOARD. LEAVE MOWINGS IF NOT A CREEPING GRASS.TUSSOCKS COULD BE CHIPPED OFF OR BURNT WITH WEED TORCH. CARDBOARD IS A BARRIER TO SUNLIGHT NOT UPWARD SHOOTS.
“regarding the newspaper/cardboard should it be the entire size of where I plan the compost to go… including pathway to walk on? ( so compost should cover the whole area including pathway not just the beds on their own)? And should it be just as thick on pathway (eg: for a test run i am planning to do 2 beds 1.2m wide by 2m long with a 60cm pathway inbetween… should i then cover the entire area 2m long and the whole width including the pathway 1.2m+60cm+1.2m same thickness all the way and then just walk on the pathway bit which will make that drop down a bit more than the bed itself or should i cover the entire area but put less compost over the pathway maybe 5cm instead of the 10-15? Or is this all irrelevant and just fill the whole area and walk where the pathway is intended to be?”
BECAUSE YOU SEEK TO EXCLUDE SUNLIGHT FROM THE GREEN LEAF, THEREBY IMPEDING PHOTOSYNTHYSIS
EXCEED THE TOTAL PLOT BY , SAY 75MM. OVERLAP EACH CARDBOARD SHEET BY , SAY, 75MM.
COMPOST IS TOO VALUABLE FOR PATH USE, I GET A (FREE!) SUPPLY OF COARSE WOODCHIP FROM TREE SURGEONS UTILISED FOR PATHS. IT DECOMPOSES IN 3 SEASONS.
“how thick should the compost above ground be? Considering carrots etc can grow quite long… That will help me calculate how much material I need to trial this.”
APPLICATION OF 150MM COMPOST IS EXTRAVAGANT!-FIRST YEAR 75-100MM, SUBSEQUENT YEARS GENERALLY 25MM, APPLIED IN AUTUMN.
YOUR CROPS WILL READILY GROW DOWN INTO THE (building layer)OF TOPSOIL,SEEKING MOISTURE.
A FEATURE THAT I HAVE NOTICED IN THE 4 SEASONS OF NO-DIG, IS THE TREMENDOUS INCREASE IN ROOT DEVELOPMENT OF CROPS.I ATTACH A PHOTO OF A SINGLE CELERY PLANT
THERE IS NO REASON NOT MULCH STANDING CROPS BETWEEN THE ROWS IF WISH TO PERHAPS TO MAINTAIN MOISTURE.
I seriously recommend that you source some (at least one ) of Charles’s books- he would post, I expect ,at your cost.