Community › Community › General Gardening › Sowing and Growing › practicalities of green house on allotment?
This topic contains 14 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by bluebell 10 years, 3 months ago.
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28th October 2013 at 1:47 pm #21795
I was looking around at cold frames and to find or make one to a reasonable standard was coming put quite expensive. So I got to thinking about how a greenhouse would be so much more versatile and I could set up irrigation and automatic venting. Looking on e bay it appears possible to pick up a reasonable second hand one for about £100.
So I appreciate that I would need to go up every day to check on it but I go most days in summer anyway. So what are the other issues and what should I look for when buying a green house?
28th October 2013 at 2:04 pm #24524Hi Bluebell.
In January 2013 I was offered and gratefully accepted a second hand 6×8′ glass greenhouse, with a view to installing it on my recently acquired allotment. I dismantled it and erected in time to get tomatoes and aubergine in etc. Great.
From my experience, if you go to inspect a second hand glass house, check whether the panes have been afixed with mastik instead of the more modern ‘foam tape’ option. The glass on mine was the former and it turned a relatively straight forward job into a marathon during dismantling and then, even more so, the clean up – hours and hours of extra work!
Great now it’s up and in use, but if I ever opt to do it again, I’d avoid any that have mastiked panes!
I hope that helps you and good luck with your build.
28th October 2013 at 4:09 pm #24525Thanks Stringfellow. That is a top tip that I had not thought of.
What did you use to secure to ground? Im thinking meta posts with a wooden frame on top sound fairly easy and effective?
28th October 2013 at 5:10 pm #24526No problem Bluebell. There’s little I can give advice on – I’m always tapping Charles deep mine of knowledge! – so it’s nice to give back a little when I can.
I screwed mine to a series of 2×2′ flag stones that I bought from B&Q, laid on a dry mix of 6 parts sand, one part cement. This allows some flexibility in the mortar mix which helps to prevent flags from ‘rocking’. These were laid on a hard core base that I compacted. Probably overkill, but that’s what I did. I have no experience of your possible method so wouldn’t like to pass judgement.
I also gave some thought to storm damage as our site is pretty open. I replaced some of the aluminium braces with steel – these are very strong and prevent the whole house flexing in high winds – this can apparently ‘pop’ panes out. Can’t hurt anyway. Mastiking the clips (using only a small amount on each clip I hasten to add!) can help prevent them popping out too.
Quite enough from me, I hope you have much success with your veg growing.
28th October 2013 at 7:40 pm #24527I was lucky to have been given 2 to me which I put on my plot. The biggest maintenance I found was the watering. Make use of all the gutters on your greenhouse.
29th October 2013 at 3:43 pm #24528If your base is flags and concrete do you grow everything in pots?
I was looking at a timber base for 2 reasons 1. I cant lift 2×2 flags so would require help 2. it would mean that I could plant in to the earth and just top it up wit compost each year – I think?
29th October 2013 at 3:57 pm #24529The flags are laid to create a perimeter that the grennhouse base sits on. The flags under lap the edge of the house by about 5″, so roughly 95% of the floor space inside the house is soil. I then covered this with about 4-5″ of well rotted manure and green waste compost to create a no-dig undercover growing area.
I understand your dilemma re: lifting; I went for 2×2′ flags because 3×2′ are too heavy for me! Perhaps a willing friend could help? If you go with wood, I would treat it heavily with something like osmo oil as Charles recommends – otherwise it will rot within a few short years.
Also, the 6:1 mortar mix will not set like concrete – so if I leave the site and the next tennant wants to remove the house, the base will crumble away with a pick axe quite easily.
30th October 2013 at 8:37 am #24530So you didn’t lay a full slab as I thought. Did you make a wooden frame for the slabs to sit in?
Relay wish I had done woodwork at school.30th October 2013 at 11:40 am #24531Hi,
Wooden frame not needed as I laid the slabs on the semi-dry mortar mix, using a spirit level etc.
I did woodwork at school and really wish I’d done food growing too!
23rd December 2013 at 8:24 am #24532Hi I am getting ahead of myself and buying seed before I even have the greenhouse, but wondering how much I could expect to grow in a 6×8 greenhouse?
Im thinking 3 or 4 tommato plants plus 4 peppers and maybe a couple of aubergene? Underplanted with salads? Or will that quickly become overcrowded?23rd December 2013 at 10:20 am #24533Hi, I managed four aubergine and four tomato; one row each side of the house, under planted with basil and marigolds. All did well. The marigolds were a touch large for the aubergine but did look nice.
This year I shall do something similar re: veg but try a chilli plant at the end of the house aswell, between the two rows.
Good luck with yours.
23rd December 2013 at 12:08 pm #24534Thanks stringfellow. Hadn’t thought about pests in the greenhouse. Marigolds sound a good idea. Or may try targets as they tend to be a bit smaller.
4th January 2014 at 2:58 pm #24535They are a lot of work to put in but are used a lot in arid climates, in Australia they are called wicking beds. I use the principle in all my windowboxes as I keep forgetting to water them. Also used the double bucket with success for tomatoes on the patio.
Basically you create a water reservoir and fill that up directly instead of watering on top. Then you need a “wick” to help the water go into the soil above, I used earth-filled pots suspended into the reservoir. Lastly, some sort of overflow.
Because of my forgetfulness I made a wicking base for all my starts that I plant out later, using sand instead of soil, and nestling the pots into that.
4th January 2014 at 3:35 pm #24536I bought a set of ‘saucers’ for my 12 inch tomato pots and with the hot summer this was a great way to know when to water the plants. It ensured that the roots never dried out and I put the feed in at the top of the pot, feeding a small amount every day.
It worked an absolute treat and someone I knew also had excellent results with the ‘quad grow’ system which uses the same principle but has a cover over the reservoir.
5th January 2014 at 1:29 pm #24537I know that you can get wicking material for seed trays and I have done similar with a towel in a sink of water for house plants when away.
I was thinking of using a leaky hose from water butts in my greenhouse. -
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