This topic contains 10 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by urbansmallholder 13 years, 10 months ago.
-
Posts
-
Hi Ladbrokes and welcome to the site.
I have found through the past year that it works best to have cardboard as TOP layer of a mulch. When buried under compost, it rots more quickly and weeds can then grow through it, whereas it stays dry and impermeable when on top, weighted down with a few stones, logs or whatever. Although after two or three months it may have weathered to the point of needing another layer of cardboard on top.
Black plastic is easier in this respect and can sometimes be scrounged from someone who has finished with a sheet.
In your case I would dig out the few remaining brambles, as it sounds like you have sorted most of them, and I would keep pulling bindweed to stop it regaining strength. I know of no ‘cure’ for bindweed, except to keep on top of it. A thick mulch certainly helps, but won’t kill it. Shoots that do appear are easier to pull out or remove with a trowel.
Weeding is a job which never goes away but after taking time to improve and clean soil, it becomes much easier, and I hope you keep moving in that direction. The first year or two are always the hardest when taking over infested soil.
Can anyone else offer some tips that have worked?
After six months under light excluding mulch (plastic in your case) the weeds will be much weakened. I would remove it at Christmas, re-mulch with an inch or so of well rotted organic matter and then, in March or so you may see re-growth of a few brambles etc which should be dug out. Similarly any bindweed you see after that, keep trowelling it out. Apart from those I would hope your plot will then be pretty clean and the organic matter on top can be knocked around with a rake or fork to make a tilth for sowing and planting.
Yes, planks harbour slugs and are best avoided, except in small gardens where they can help to concentrate fertility and define a special area for growing. Slightly mounded beds is best for larger areas, with paths of soil, with some compost on top to help with weeding. Permanent plastic and membranes are horribloe and wood chips get in the way after a while. Think of paths as a valuable extension of your growing area, with soil that plants can root into. Mine are 15-18" (39-45cm) for four foot beds (1.2m).
yes the talk is open though it is organised by Box gardeners and they may ask for a small fee if you are not a member, hope to see you there
It is at the Selwyn Hall, Box, near Corsham postcode SN13 8NT, at 7.30pm
I can add that I have had beds both of wood and without. The wooden one are ok but yes they do make it easier for the pests to hide and if your paths are a bit rough (such as mine are) then the weeds can also wriggle their way through. I had mine for 15 years and I’m now slowly getting rid of the wooden beds and just mounding them up gently.
I’ve seen Charles’ gardens first hand and they are exceptional, I aspire to this!!
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.