Biodegradable Mulches

Community Community No dig gardening Preparing the ground Biodegradable Mulches

Tagged: 

This topic contains 15 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by  sarah-off-grid 9 years, 2 months ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 16 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #29779

    chris
    Participant

    Hello – I’ve been really enjoying these books. I’ve been growing on plots for a few years with minimal till but am going to be going no till now.

    Me and my wife are buying our first home and I plan on growing intensively on about 1/4 acre – we are in a costal town. There will be existing lawn in place and my question is around biodegradable mulches. Would it make sense long term to put down a layer of manure on the grass, cover with bio360 (non GMO corn starch based cover) or weed guard plus or newspaper then cover with compost? I want the soil to be in good shape in 1 years time.

    Also in the first year of planting would you plant nitrogen fixing plants like beans, etc to get that soil ready for full production the following year?

    Thanks in adavance.

    #29782

    Don Foley
    Participant

    Hi Seegull,

    Charles gives advise on this very thing in all his Books.
    The method I chose from the options he gives was to cover the area with 6″ of FYM or Horse Manure, the latter in my case, in late winter,and cover until sowing/planting time. This will kill off even the most hardy of weeds though not all. Every year thereafter you add a 2″ layer of Garden Compost or Manure.
    I don’t think you will get perfect soil in just 12 months, more likely 4/5 years, sooner or longer depending on the soil you are starting out with in the first place.
    So basically if you start with a 6″ layer of FYM you don’t need any other weed suppression.
    Don.

    #29783

    chris
    Participant

    Thanks Don. I would def. be in this for the long haul and put 2-3 ” of compost on it each year. I guess I’m wondering if the weed barrier will help at all – I know people use cardboard and I’ve thought of that as well but the Bio360 comes in easy rolls the size of my planned beds and will probably dissipate by year 2.

    Good luck sounds like you are off to a great start.

    #29786

    charles
    Moderator

    Hello Seagull and welcome to the forum.
    Just to add to Don’s comments, I tried the biodegradable corn-starch mulch and was disappointed at how long it takes to degrade, and it looks just like a litter of black polythene. It has lasted two years already.
    Your soil will improve quickly and you can grow anything in compost mulches.

    #29802

    chris
    Participant

    Thanks Charles, looks like I will skip it and put that $$ towards more compost.

    #29910

    simondragon
    Participant

    I find farm yard manure, particularly horse manure is a great way to get inundated with thistles. I’d suggest that green waste compost is better, and lighter to handle too. If you can get free horse manure though, I say put this over your soil or grass, then cover with 2″-4″ of green waste compost. This way you’ll get great growing soil and it much easier to weed and/or hoe.

    #29913

    charles
    Moderator

    Simon thanks for this but its unfair to label all horse manure as thistly!
    Either yours had some roots of perennial thistle, which need pulling out while spreading, or if its seeds they can easily be pulled or hoed.
    Its a good point about using clean compost as surface layer, also easier to sow into.

    #29920

    simondragon
    Participant

    Thanks Charles,
    Just pointing out that often free or cheap horse manure is just stacked on or next to pasture. Therefore weed seeds go blow into it. A few years back I spread about 1/2 acre in horse manure to make a garden. Grew a lot of potatoes for first year. Lots of thistles came up between the potatos and was hard to weed them. Did get a good yield but the thistles were a problem for a couple of years as they seems ed seed everywhere. My land was next to pasture and weed seed always blow in regardless of how clean my land was.
    I find the green waste compost is much easier, as plants can’t self seed as easily into it and its easier to hoe or hand pull what weeds do seed in.
    Plus is cheap and a recycled material, personally I think its great and will use it all the time.
    This is just my personal experience and other peoples will vary.

    #29926

    Don Foley
    Participant

    Hi Simon,

    FYM and Horse Manure are two very different items.
    I only ever use Horse Manure (I live in Kildare, the Horse breeding capital of Ireland) with a 2″ layer of Garden Compost on top. I don’t get Thistle and any weeds I do get are simply hand picked or howed as I find them.
    Maybe its because my Horse Sh1t comes from thorough breds!!

    Don.

    #29928

    Andysmum
    Participant

    Hi not sure if this helps but I have watched a video on YouTube and Barley straw was used to clear a large area of grass 4-6 ins deep dosnt take long to break down apparently , I havnt used it so don’t know how good it is

    #29930

    Andysmum
    Participant

    Sorry it wasn’t youtube it’s an article in Marches Kitchen garden magazine by Andrew Davenport, I think I’m going a bit crazy not being able to get into the garden

    #29932

    Rhys
    Participant

    Don

    I get my Horse Manure from a very lowly stable which has the sorts of horse suitable for children to learn on. Absolutely no sign of a thorough bred and I’ve had no thistles coming out of mine either!!

    #29933

    Don Foley
    Participant

    rtj1211

    LOL..hehehehe. Mine is a “posh” garden. We have certain standards to maintain!

    Don.

    #29934

    chris
    Participant

    Thanks Simon – I will be using fully composted Cow manure from farms around my area. I’ve used it in other gardens and its worked out amazing in the 2nd and 3rd years. I do have to purchase it but it is about 1/2 the price of compost.

    I plan to put the manure down over grass, cardboard – then about 2-3″ of compost on top of that to create my beds. I’m costal so if I can get my hands on seaweed that will be added to the manure as well.

    #29935

    charles
    Moderator

    Yes go for seaweed if you can, especially for asparagus and seakale.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 16 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.

Forum Info

Registered Users
28,870
Forums
10
Topics
2,941
Replies
10,416
Topic Tags
567