This topic contains 13 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by charles 11 years, 7 months ago.
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Thanks for your comments Paul, you are on the right track in your last paragraph. However I would not say "break up" the soil as that is not the aim. Soil needs to be firm, yet full of tiny air holes which can make it seem hard when dry, yet really it is fully open to plant roots.
I know the feeling of wondering whether hard-looking, dense soil can grow food without being mechanically loosened: I had it with some badly compacted clay thirteen years ago, in my top garden, and the worms have done a great job.
You had reasonable crops this year so your soil is alright, then with the manure or compost on top it can really start to heal and come alive. Part of the reason it is hard now is a settling process after being broken up by digging; my dug beds of the experiment have hard soil at the moment, compared with a soft surface on the undug beds, with their organic matter being where both the soil and plants like it to be. Three inches sounds good for this year, then half that next autumn/winter.
HI YA PAUL UK, i to have a plot that was done in the tradditionl way i had read some were as regards no dig gardening were as you put layers of newspaper down then cover with compost,i had an area that i could not cultivate for a while so i done as advised above, no weeds of any signeficant have grown there, my courgets are growing happely ther at the mo and still no weeds, then i found this website WWW. CHARLESDOWDING.CO.UK, wich has confirmed what i had read some were, and what an eye opener this site is charles certinly knows his stuff,……..pete
I have had my plot a year now and had unbelieveable results using these methods, I really am chuffed. My one comment on the books would be please can you make the next ones ring binders as after a year of constaint use they are falling to bits!
I have also cause some consternation on our allotments by continuing to plant – most are now nearly naked and being dug but not havign to spend the time diging and wnating winter salads, Im still trying to find space to squeeze things in and comming away with a good basket of veg – far more than 2 of us can eat, every day. Still havign a great time experimenting in the kitchen with hither to untried things such as corgette cake
It is lovely to receive this feedback and to know the books are helping out. Bluebell, I have passed your ring-bind comment to Green Books. Interesting that you say there is "consternation" on your allotments, I hope it is of an enquiring nature and not critical! I was admiring the abundance on Steph’s no dig allotment in Bruton yesterday where, after four years of noticing the happy growth and absence of weeds, some fellow allotmenteers are daring to try some of the methods which so clearly work well, and in this difficult year above all.
Whilst there has been a certain amount of tutting and shaking of heads (mainly from the ones who grow only cabbage sprouts and leeks during the winter) most are very supportive and some have even dared to try some of my more ‘exotic’ plants, although not everyone has enjoyed them all (the aramanth is not one I will be planting again).
I have also reserved the right to tut and shake my head at the ones that grow far more than they need then let it go to waste. Hopefully the fact that we managed to raise a significant sum from the sale of surplace produce this month may make them have a bit of a rethink on that. Still I have discovered that there are a lot of reasons that people have allotments and many of them have very little to do with putting good tasty food on the table.
Hi there everyone. I’m about to retire and am planning to take over 2 thirds of an acre lying fallow for years. I’m wondering what proportion of compost needed for no-dig approach can be produced on site? I’m an enthusiastic composter in my current city garden with lots of grass to keep things warm. I have three bins: one taking stuff in, one maturing and one being used. I turn 2 into three, then one into two, then start again filling number one… if that makes sense to anyone. It’s a great system.
Ecoboy, dublinThere is no one answer as it depends how thickly you want to cover the ground, also what state the soil is in now, in terms of health and abundance. And what your aim is for the whole area.
Since vegetables grow best in rich soil, I like to use extra compost in a first year of clearing ground, then use a good inch per year after that. On two thirds of an acre you may need over ten tons per year. How to measure that? I reckon there can be a ton in heaps of four feet square, from counting my barrow-loads. Depending how wet and decomposed it is! Your composting system sounds good but unless you bring in lots of extra ingredients, I can’t imagine you having enough for the whole site, every year. Some people sow green manures such as alfalfa or grass and clover on part of their ground, to cut and compost, there are many possibilities.
Your whole area composted will be hugely productive, I guess you will be selling produce?
If you need to buy in compost or manure, a cow produces about four tons per year (including some added bedding) so these seeming-large figures of tons needed are not extravagant.
Would it be useful if Charles could create some way of calculating rough quantities of compost/ manure for the first year and then subsequent years? Perhaps weight by square metre?
Not an exact science I realise, but it would give us an idea – a sort of ‘dung formulae’ if you like…..
Tris
Try this excerpt from my Course Book
"As with compost itself, the important factor of its cost varies so much that value for money is hard to assign. I suggest that £20 per tonne delivered is reasonable. Year old animal manure is more valuable than woody green waste compost. One tonne is enough for spreading about 2-3cm (1”) of compost or manure on 60-80m length, of beds 1.2m wide (4×100-165’, about half an allotment).
For a first season of thick mulching (7-10cm or 3-4”), to improve soil and reduce weed growth, a three or four ton load could be spread on new allotment beds. Thereafter one or two tonnes per annum is enough to keep improving the soil."
ALLOTMENT SIZE (of standard 10 rods) is one sixteenth of an acre, about 300 square yards, say 150 yards length of four foot wide beds and two foot wide paths. Adding these together makes six feet or two yards, and 2×150 = 300).
Weight per square metre of beds, allowing that beds are two thirds of the total area (paths are one third) and counting metres as yards, roughly (!), is approx 40kg for 3-4 inch thickness and 20kg for annual maintenance dose of 1-2 inches. Please allow for different densities of manure, this is to give a rough idea.
Brilliant gentlemen. what a great lot of information. Thank you all.
If I’m seeing it right, one decent compost heap, of a pallet sized cube (about 1 metre cube) gives me a ton of compost, enough to cover about 75 sq metres on maintenence each year i.e. about one inch cover. or about 25 sq metres the first year at 3-4 inches … ok, so I need to budget for a big importation the first year or two, as I start modestly, and gradually expand into the 2/3rds of an acre. I have cattle farmers near me and the sea not too far away, so plenty of variety for the heaps! lots of planning to do and lots to look forward to. And, yes, I do hope to sell some produce!
EcoboyOne piece of advice would be to start on part of the plot and expand slowly into the rest. If you try to do the whole plot in one go you will struggle to keep up with it and will struggle to find homes for all that lovely fruit and veg.
Retirement is not as quiet as you expect, you will wonder how you ever had time to work. Enjoy yourself and may your retirement be happy, healthy and long!
I really hate seeing allotments dug for the autumn, As a no dig gardener for 40 years I really believe in the benefits of keeping plants growing all winter. Surprisingly my latest blog on my own site is about reasons why gardeners dig!
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