dodgy manure

This topic contains 15 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  Christine 5 years, 5 months ago.

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  • #48678

    christine
    Participant

    Was so excited by no dig that I rushed out to get horse manure and created my 1st bed but now have read on further and realised it has to be well rotted and all the stuff about AP fertilisers and think I have messed up.
    I put down cardboard then spread manure on top but think its too full of sawdust and needs more time to rot. I will try to upload photo below. I have more space to be cultivating so can I just leave this here and come back to it next year? or do I heap it up and leave it somewhere else to rot properly. Very new to all this so all advice appreciated!

    #48679

    christine
    Participant

    sorry struggling with photo!

    #48680

    christine
    Participant

    still trying

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    #48817

    Kevin Anderson
    Participant

    Hello Christine.
    I have some experience with horse manure (experience is the name that we give to our mistakes!).
    Not to worry that the horse manure might be, or seem, a little fresh, or has sawdust in it.
    For next time, try to make a cubic pile(s), about 1m (high) x 1m (wide) x however many metres long you can manage (at least 1m long).
    Make sure that the horse manure/sawdust mixture is well watered.
    I suggesting a gentle garden hose mist as you are stacking the manure in your bin(s).
    After 24, 36 hours there will probably be a large increase in temperature.
    Try to get the temperature above 45 degrees (C), and better still, above 50 degrees (C).
    After a few days you will notice the volume (height) of the pile shrinking, and the temperature falling.
    Depending on available muscle power and time, you should aim to toss the pile into a new bin after 3 or 4 weeks. (After 2 weeks is slightly preferable, but this is a trade off between time/muscle power available, and other garden priorities.)

    After the toss (and very slight misting) wait another 2 or 3 weeks. The temperature, initially, will probably rise again, though probably not as high as the first time.

    If you have the patience and the time, wait for a few months before using the manure.

    There is probably no need to toss the manure a second time. But if you have the time and energy, this is recommended.

    You will notice that the final volume – after 3 months – will probably be about 40% of the original volume, because of compaction, and oxidation of the original material.

    I hope this helps.

    #49579

    Christine
    Participant

    kevin thank you so much that is really helpful! I meant to reply earlier but had issues logging in so couldn’t contribute. I can get loads of this stuff from local stables so really wanted to upcycle it and cant wait to try your method.

    #49581

    charles
    Moderator

    Kevin those are excellent composting tips.
    Christine I would leave in place what you have done, it will continue breaking down. Will be best next year for larger plants eg courgettes, sweetcorn, not for sowing carrots.
    Also do an AP test by sowing some broad beans/peas in the horse manure, even when quite fresh, keep them warm and after a month you will know if it’s ok.

    #49584

    Christine
    Participant

    Thanks Charles will do. I sowed green manure over it because I thought I’d have to leave it a while. I’ve been composting like mad with lots of other stuff from coffee shops etc so I will be really set for next year. I thought maybe spread 2 inches of my compost on top then thats where my courgettes will go! Got your diary and feeling frustrated that there’s not more I can do this month as Ive no green house (in the plan for next year). I really have to work on this gardening patience!

    #49592

    Kevin Anderson
    Participant

    Christine and for all “no dig” gardeners, wrestling with how best to use horse manure in their gardens …

    The following YouTube video might be of interest https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K9_yWQATxNI

    You will see there an excellent suggestion for aerating your pile by using PVC pipes, at the bottom of the pile, suitably “holed”. I suggest 75, 100mm diameter pipe (3, 4 ins). This will act as a passive ventilator, and provide excellent aeration for your pile of horse manure (or horse manure, plus shavings etc.), especially in the bottom 1/3 of the pile, where aeration can be a problem, because of compaction or excess moisture.

    One of the lessons that I have learnt – through years of “wrestling” with horse manure, and how best to incorporate it into your garden – is the need to plan ahead. In other words, today’s fresh horse manure, will be useful in 3 to 6 months at a minimum.

    Only my experience. Hope that this helps.

    #49651

    Christine
    Participant

    Thanks Kevin
    I went back to the stables and got another load which I’ve put into a pile as you suggested. This stuff seems more rotted (it came from nearer the middle of their massive heap) so will turn it as you advised and hopefully it will be good for next year.
    I also did test as Charles suggested and Broad bean seedling is coming through on the 1st lot so hopefully this means its AP free, good news all round!
    Thanks for all the help this site is amazing for good advice and kind participants.

    #49690

    Gwynleg
    Participant

    Hi Christine
    You probably do know this but I think you have to let the broad beans grow more so you can see that the leaves are growing normally rather than distorted. I think AP allows growth but its abnormal. Hope its all ok.

    #49700

    Christine
    Participant

    ok I did not realize that! I will leave it and keep my fingers crossed. 2nd lot I collected is in big heap and v hot so I think as long as i leave it till next year should be good?!

    #49705

    Kevin Anderson
    Participant

    Piles of horse manure turning into compost appear to break down quickest when they are of cubic dimensions or nearly so.

    My suggestion for turning horse manure into garden compost is to start with a base of some sort. If you do not have permanent or semi-permanent bins and need to have temporary sides, I suggest cardboard or many thicknesses of newspaper as the base, with 3 sturdy sides. The front of the bin could be made of boards etc. that enable its height to grow as you are shovelling in your quest for cubic “perfection”. 🙂

    Piles of horse manure should always be covered (i) to conserve moisture (30 – 40% of the weight of the pile is water), and (ii) to prevent rain from entering the pile. If rodents are a problem, as they are for me, here, the cover might give you another layer of protection.

    #50156

    Christine
    Participant

    hi again new manure bin is doing brilliantly. I turned it and it got hot again and now has fallen in size just as you said Kevin. All very exciting! This manure was older when I collected it (from the middle of a big pile at the stables) It is now cold again so does that mean its ready to use?
    A lot of wood shavings in it but I was thinking about putting it on beds now for overwintering, then maybe using better compost for the top 2 inches in spring? Otherwise I could mix it in with new compost I’m making to dilute the wood a bit?
    Thank you so much for all the advice so far
    chris

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    #50158

    Christine
    Participant

    Another question sorry!!
    I planted broad beans in the original manure to check for APDo they look OK? not really sure what I’m checking for.
    The leaves look a bit ragged but that could be pests nibbling?.

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    #50167

    charles
    Moderator

    Christine they look fine, new leaves are healthy.
    At this time of year it’s rare for plants to look generally fantastic!
    These are my seedlings in fresh horse manure, not brilliant but the one really strong and healthy one shows me it’s ok.

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