This topic contains 10 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by kate robinson 12 years, 5 months ago.
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For some plants it might help, think peppers, tomatoes etc. For salads, spinach etc I never use them. I do a lot of indirect sowing because pests and heat sometimes make it impossible to sow direct.
I have this model http://www.amazon.co.uk/Garland-Electric-Windowsill-Propagator-G51/dp/B000YA43HC I got it from my friends father, must be 20 years old. Works fine apart from the fact that the plastic tops are starting to fall apart. I also have this one (frighting expensive in the Uk, cheaper in Germany etc.) http://www.amazon.co.uk/Biogreen-HMTA060-120-GB-Aluminium-Thermostat/dp/B005910L5E/ref=sr_1_17?s=outdoors&ie=UTF8&qid=1323164714&sr=1-17 which I love. There are smaller heat mats and I like them better since you can put almost any tray you like on it. Another one I have (also present 15 years or so old)http://www.garden4less.co.uk/electric-heated-propagator-heat-grow-52cm.asp
Maybe an idea to ask around or look on ebay. If you have time on your hands you can build your own, just search on the net. But to come back to your question. You don’t need it but they are handy. Btw I’m in Italy (where it can be very cold!) so maybe UK readers can chip in.Mart has summed it up nicely. For me the main value of warmth in propagating it to help germination and the first stage of seedling growth, especially in early spring. I give many seeds three or four weeks gentle warmth, then give new sowings a turn and so forth. A windowsill is warm enough for this but long stem growth means you can’t keep plants there for too long. Fruiting vegetables are mostly the ones to benefit from steady warmth – tomato, melon etc, also basil.
Hi Sringfellow, think the last two replies from Mart and Charles cover which plants really benefit from some extra warmth in the tricky early spring sowings but just thought it might be useful to add a couple of things. Last year i started all my toms peppers chilis etc on a heat mat lent to me by a friend who used to keep a scorpion! The mats are made by a company called HABISTAT. Mine measures 23″x11″ and is 28Watts. These mats are very cheap compared to others mentioned however have no thermostat. I had no idea what the soil temperature was but everything germinated incredibly quickly and evenly, toms only taking about 3 or 4 days! I use small seed trays for each differant variety being started, sowing the seed only around 1cm apart onto the surface of moist compost, gently pushed in but left uncovered. The trays are then covered with cling film or a sheet of glass and placed directly on the mat. Differant varieties germinate at differant rates so can be taken off the heat as soon as the first white shoot starts to appear. Check the trays at least twice a day as seedlings will become streched and leggy in just a few hours on the heat. Once the critical part of germination has happened continue to grow on your windowsill until large enough to prick out into individual pots. This mat was big enough to cope with all the plants for my tunnel and about 400 plants for sale. Robin
Thanks alround for the advice – much appreciated.
I’m very new to growing my own food and it’s something I’m greatly enjoying. However, sometimes I try and run before I can walk. I think this coming spring I shall have a go at propagating somewhere warm inside and then consider one of the kindly recommended electric propagators for next year.
Maybe Father Christmas will bring me something anyway?
If so, is it advisable to move freshly germinated seedlings to a cooler area inside the house before moving them outside into the unheated greenhouse? Just wondering if it would be too much of a shock going from warm propagator to underglass outside?! Hardening off process etc.Thanks again,
Tris
In the end vegetable growing is a lot of trial and error. I bet many growers still have more or less pleasant surprises now and then but that is part of the fun! Go easy on the temperature shifts but use common sense. Have a look in Charles’ books his advice is sane and spot on. Enjoy!
Hi Rocket Science,
I was interested in your comments about heat mats. I spoke to Habistat who said their mats were used mainly for animals…. and that I would have to put the mat in a seed tray (no holes) then put another seed tray on top of that to prevent water getting to the electrics… What are your thoughts? Do yo do this? KateHello Kate, I think the advise from Habistat is probably wise! I didn’t put anything under the seed trays but suppose water and electrics aren’t best friends! Having said that the mats are laminated in plastic and i didnt water the trays while on the mat- just soaked compost before sowing, cling film or glass will retain the moisture. Forgot to mention in last comment that this was on a window sill at home as i have no electric at the garden. Will definatly be using them again next year assuming my mate doesn’t get another unusual pet and want it back!
Ok! That all makes good sense. Thanks.
With this method, when would you be sowing your first salad/lettuce seeds?? I will be planting them outside eventually but I do have a greenhouse.Hi Kate, just to make clear, the only seeds i germinated on the heat mat were toms, chilis, aubergines and peppers this year. All early salads will be started off in an unheated greenhouse at the garden. My first sowings in late January will be Lettuce, Red Knight Mizuna, Kyoto Mizuna, Pea shoots, Wild Rocket, Claytonia and Orache, all in modules or for picking out into modules, all planted in the tunnel except the lettuce. Mid Feb onwards, Spinach, Boltardy for leaves, more Pea shoots and Orache, Sorrel, Parsley etc, all for outside apart from boltardy as leaf quality is much better in the tunnel. Hope this helps a bit! Not long until it all starts again!! Have a look in Charles’s Salad Leaves for all seasons p.168- this will be helpful i think.
Fantastic – this is really helpful – thanks!
It’s all a bit daunting when you first start.
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