Making raised beds, control of existing weeds

[kentish townerParticipant]

Early next spring I am planning to install raised beds 15cm high in my garden, where I have been growing for 4 years. It has perennial weeds. Should I simply dig them out and lay the new beds directly on the existing soil or onto a draining weed barrier.
Would John Innes topsoil be a good choice to fill the beds

[Don FoleyParticipant]

Hi Kentish Towner,

The answer to your question can be found here:
http://www.charlesdowding.co.uk/no-dig-growing/no-dig-growing-preparation/.
Basically, don’t bother with the weed barrier and follow Charles’s advise in the above article.

Don.

[charlesModerator]

Thanks Don, that is it exactly. And never bury a weed barrier unless its cardboard.

[Concetta ParsonsParticipant]

Great information. Thanks for sharing

[ElizaDParticipant]

Hello Charles and all

The last three raised beds I put in last year (wooden sides, 6″ deep) were placed over grass and existing flower borders. I cleared what I thought were most of the perennial flowers and some shrubs but now ornamental alliums are springing up in two of the beds and will require removal.

My question is this. If I just remove the top growth will they eventually just give up coming up? I dug out as many as I could find before placing the new beds but you know what bulbs are like. I do not want to try digging them out again now.

Also, on some old raised beds down by the Apple tree I noticed last year that bindweed was making a comeback. I have open land at the back of my property and it is creeping in from there. About ten years ago I put glyphosate on it (the only chemical I have ever used and only for this purpose) which halted it for this long. Haven’t used glyphosate since and don’t want to again. I noticed it was in my spring small shrub and bulb boarder and creeping into these raised beds too. I trowelled it out and disposed of it but it was rife at that end of the garden. As it is coming from ‘the other side of the fence’ am I fighting a losing battle?

Cheers all

Eliza

[charlesModerator]

Eliza, bulb alliums are persistent but do expire after 3-4 times removing leaves and some stem with a trowel, although not removing the bulb which as you say is so buried.
The bindweed needs to see your trowel too, every 10 days in summer, at least. Little and often.It’s not a losing battle but you never “win” either.
I have the same here with a wooden fence between one of my borders and a neighbour’s bed full of ivy and some bindweed, it is constant “edging” to keep them at bay.

[ElizaDParticipant]

Thanks, Charles, I’ll continue to remove the top growth and some stem of the alliums as well then.

Depressing to see how quickly the bindweed spread after I first spotted it. Will keep trowelling it out of the beds and borders too. Wonder if it would help if I got a strimmer and strimmed the other side of my fence?

Thanks,
Eliza

[charlesModerator]

Yes if you can do that, streaming/mowing weeds reduces the vigour of their roots.

[david.dosberryParticipant]

I’ve had a half plot allotment for a couple of years, that had not been worked for three years. The topsoil is very shallow and worms were non existent, but are now returning. I want to convert it to no-dig, is it best to keep the beds to narrow to avoid treading on or can they be bigger–any ideas please.

[Don FoleyParticipant]

Hi David,
Most people stick to a width of 4′ as this is comfortable for reaching the centre from either side.

[Vivian GParticipant]

Hi David,
The beds in my kitchen garden are 4′ with 1′ paths in between. The beds in my market garden are 3′ with paths 1.5′ wide. Although 4′ beds allow for more room for growing in the same area I definitely prefer the 3′ beds. They are easy to straddle, so there are more positions for working in. And I find easier on my back working in the middle of the bed. I don’t have to stretch so far.
The same is to be said about the paths. The narrower they are the more room there is for growing veg. But if they are too narrow, one has to be ever so careful not to step onto the beds, that working becomes strenous. Make sure that at least they fit the size of the shoes that you wear when gardening.

[JDParticipant]

Hi David,
I agree with the people above but the difference with properly made no dig beds with compost is that you CAN stand on them or put a supporting foot in the middle if necessary. Hope this doesn’t confuse you more.
Jan

[charlesModerator]

Thanks for adding that Jan, it’s an important point that is sometimes lost in translation. There is a widespread assumption that you “never walk on beds”. It applies only to dug/loosened soil!

Interestingly some no-diggers do not walk on their beds, but I have never noticed it to cause a problem. Was pulling onions yesterday and the surface compost/soil is just so soft.

[charlesModerator]

Hello Kentish Towner and I hope you get to see this.
I was checking the thread before promoting it on social media, and spotted that your original Q. never got a reply to the John Innes part.

It is not a suitable filler, too expensive for what it brings. You are better with compost than soil. Compost can be anything decomposed, including old animal manure. It sinks while your plants are growing, then add more after a year, etc.

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