Onions from seed

[GinamcconMember]

This is my first year of growing onions from seed. I plan on multi sown modules as suggested in your books. Can I ask how you propagate yours? I’ve read 10-16oC for germination then don’t let then go over 13oC when through as more prone to bolting. Do you leave your on a gentle bottom heat in a cold greenhouse when through? As I imagine this very cold weather stressing them. Thanks in advance.

[charlesModerator]

 Your figures are all good and yes I normally germinate them with gentle bottom heat, the thermostat set on 16-18C which means the compost temperature is about right, a little lower as some warmth is lost before reaching the modules. But one can never be that precise and these figures are to give an idea rather than to be followed slavishly, so don’t worry if temperatures vary, as they do, and your seeds will certainly appreciate some warmth in the coming days.

OR you could wait and sow them as late as mid February and in view of conditions now I would recommend that, and the same for lettuce and beetroot. Most worthwhile sowings undercover at the moment (in my opinion!) are spinach and peas for shoots.

[StringfellowParticipant]

This is helpful as I am hoping to do the same as Ginamccon this season re: onion sowing.

I wondered if the multi-module sowing method is okay for the variety Kelsae – in that, they have the potential to grow very large? Are six seeds per module still advisable/ okay?

Shallots are also on the list (perhaps Zebrune) and I am unsure about module sowing and final planting spacing. 2-4 seeds per module will create 2-4 shallot bulbs, spacing the clumps at 25cm x 25cm? Apologies if this is a basic question!

Many thanks,

Tris

[GinamcconMember]

Thanks Charles for taking the time to reply, it’s much appreciated, all that advice is very useful. I’ll hold off on what you suggested and try some pea shoots as they sound lovely. Can I second the shallot questions asked previously. Having never grown them I’m a bit confused does 1 seed equal one shallot, you then plant this shallot the following year for them to split?

[Andrew PearmanMember]

I would recommend growing shallots from seed in exactly the same way as onions. Approx 6 seeds per module will give you a harvest clumps of up to 6 shallots, depending on germination. I would space them the same distance as Charles advises for onions, make sure there is enough space to hoe in between the clumps though! One seed will produce one shallot at harvest time, although when cut this may have started to divide internally. Planting a set will give you a clump of shallots. With multisowing you will end up with a heavier harvest of bulbs than from single plants, but the bulbs will be smaller.
If you are trying to grow big onions from Kelsae seed then you could try 2 seeds per module, thin to the stronest then plant out in April. This would give you the biggest size bulbs, but perhaps not the most productive use of the ground!
I would thoroughly recommend multisowing of this and other crops. Beetroot is extremely productive when grown this way.
Andy

[StringfellowParticipant]

…Andy, this is very helpful. I will give these ideas a go in the next month or two, though I will now probably go with a different variety of onion and multi-sow.

Wishing you the best with your growing efforts over the next year and beyond.

[Andrew PearmanMember]

Stringfellow, I’ll be trying shallot Zebrune for the first time this year, it will be interesting to see how it grows. I’ve read that it prefers reasonably warm well drained conditions, but I’m going to try it on my clay anyway. Matador F1 grew well for me last year and I think Charles has recommended Conservor F1 – both round varieties I think.
Andy

[StringfellowParticipant]

Will be interesting to hear how they turn out on your clay soil – hinging also on the quality of our summer ahead of course!

I’ve been looking into getting alot of my seed supply from Tuckers this year (they seem to have a good range on the whole) and they stock Conservor F1 seed. If I had more space I’d try two varieties but at least half the plot is covered in black plastic battling against some rather fierce horsetail. So trying different varieties will have to wait ’til at least next year for me. Patience is a virtue and all that….

Thanks for the tips and good luck with it all anyway.

[Andrew PearmanMember]

The shallots did very well last season, growing large in clumps of about five plants. The Zebrune are beginning to soften and sprout now, but have been delicious (especially roasted) and easy to prepare. Matador have also been excellent and look like keeping for quite a while yet. Would thoroughly recommend these varieties – both available from Simpson’s seeds.
Can’t wait to start this years sowings!
Andy

[StringfellowParticipant]

Hi Andy,

Thanks for the update. I’ve just finished preparing some Jermor shallots (hung up in the garage) ready to make a squash soup for dinner – yum…..

Zebrune and Matador go on the future list of ‘to grows’. I grew Figaro from seed this last season but they were planted on ground I had just cleared of perennials by digging. It had not been treated to any organic matter for some time and I think this, in part, resulted in a less than good harvest from the Figaro. I’ll try them again this year under better conditions and see how things go – I have seed left over. I’ve also overwintered some sets from The Garlic Farm and they are looking good so far.

I’m with you and can’t wait to get sowing/ going – 12th February for me, couple of days before full moon next month. Ah, the anticipation

[Andrew PearmanMember]

Enjoy your soup Stringfellow! We’ve just had squash and shallots, roasted with a few Brussels thrown in – lovely.
I normally start sowings off on the warm sand around the 15th Feb, but have never considered the moon. Might have a look into it for this year. Andy

[charlesModerator]

 Yes you can multisow Kelsae if you want them less enormous, I grew two from sowing three seeds. Your shallot spacings sound fine for sowing 4 to 5 seeds per module.

Last spring I germinated onions over a hotbed but the greenhouse was very cold and they were fine, so gentle bottom heat works well, and they came off the hotbed after a month. Any heat given is most worth it in the first month, after that the plants are happy to grow slowly in cooler conditions and last year endured some frosts in the greenhouse before planting – with few bolters in Red Baron.

[StringfellowParticipant]

Thanks Charles.

I’m trying sturon and red baron from seed this year and will provide gentle heat for the first month following your suggestion. Next year, when I have much more space for growing, I will also try Kelsae.

Great job on the monster Hotbed – I guess you need ladders or a running jump to access it for sowing, planting, harvesting etc.!!

[charlesModerator]

 You are right, the growing bed is a little farther away than I would like, because of the insulating layer around. It is a trade-off between warmth and access. Also the bed’s sides splayed outwards a little as we kept dancing on top to push in as much manure as possible.

[Shaun PearceParticipant]

I’m growing lots of onions this year as we use so many.

I’m growing Kelsey that were sown in individual cells but I may even clump them when planting to 2 or 3 to save on space. I’m also going to grow Bedfordshire Champion, Ailsa Craig and red Barron all from seed. Do you all grow in between your onions with carrots, beets or lettuce? If so when best to plant?

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