This topic contains 6 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by MonicaM 12 years, 8 months ago.
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Hello Big D
I am sure your problem is shared by many and I appreciate your point about an intial dig. Woody plants are best removed with a sharp spade as they grow through most mulches. Only the main root 4-6in below the stem of bramble, sycamore and elderflower, for example, need removing as the remaining roots will then rot. Nettle and ivy can be mulched, for a year to be sure of them dying. So it is not a total dig everywhere.
On the other hand, the plastic debris you describe is better removed, I am not sure how worms and other soil life may be harmed by it, so it appears that ye, an initial dig is worthwhile. At least it is once only and then you will have clean soil. The first year or two are always the most demanding, so well done and good luck.
i had a similar problem not as bad but im now reaping the rewards of doing it properly.
I would clear as soon as you can then manure/compost and light excluding mulch, to have maximum growing time for perennial roots to ‘grow’ under a mulch and wear themselves out. Planting next spring is tight time-wise but should be alright if your digging removes the large roots, leaving only smaller ones to be exhausted by the mulching effect. Also you can plant bushes etc through a mulch, just make sure that no weed shoots are allowed to develop around the roots of each plant; use a trowel next spring and summer to extract as much root as possible of any re-growing perennial and they should give up by year’s end.
Hi Charles and everyone
I took on an allotment in April this year, and started out by digging in the time-honoured fashion. Then after I had planted potatoes and broad beans I got hold of your book (2nd edn Org’c Gdng and Natural No-dig way) – found it quite by accident when buying copper tools – and had a re-think.My big problem is that the previous allotment-holder didn’t dig – he had this rotovator . . . so you can imagine what that did to the bindweed and thistles. Anyway, inspired by your ideas, and with some wood we had lying around I created 6 – 1200 x 3600 raised beds, which together with the spuds and beans took up about half the plot.
I did them in a bit of a hurry (wanted to get planting you see) and I naively thought that the fairly comprehensive digging I did would do for the pesky perennials, but of course they came up again. The trouble is that the underlying rock (hamstone) is only about one spit depth down and those white roots get in and under it. I did get some of the stone up, but it was tough going. The good news is that the new raised beds mean the rock is that bit lower down now.
I had no manure or compost to add at the time, but planted seeds and stuff anyway and have done surprisingly well on the harvest front – my carrots were as straight as a die (most of them), beetroot great, onions pretty good considering I planted late, broad beans and spuds brilliant. I could go on.
I am now tackling the second half of the plot and creating the beds a bit more professionally by fixing the boards to corner posts and have a nice lot of manure to plonk on top.
What I am trying to get round to saying is that by dividing the plot into beds, it is possible to attack the weeds in stages, several beds at a time, and still grow some stuff. Now that the beans and potatoes are harvested, I can start afresh on that bit, create the beds and do the mulching/composting over winter.
By the way, the next lot of beds are going to be a little narrower. I find reaching to the middle of a 4 ft bed is just a bit too far (I’ve only got little legs you see – and not very long arms to match).
Anyway – hope that thought helps someone.
Monica
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