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Hello all,
In my opinion, it’s better not to use multi cell trays at all. Instead, use soil blocks. With soil blocks, there is no wastage when the cell trays eventually have to be thrown away, no collection, cleaning and storage of trays for re-use the next year, and easier transplanting, because there is no time spent struggling to get the plantlets out of the cells. Transplants in soil blocks get away to a good start because the roots don’t circle around inside a restrictive cell but stop growing at the edge of the soil block, ready to start growing again when transplanted (the fancy name for this is air-pruning).All you need to get started with soil blocks is a soil-blocking device and a flat surface, such as a gravel tray, on which to place the blocks. There is a UK based manufacture of soil-blocking devices and they sell their products worldwide. They have a nice web-site here:
For small numbers of larger size soil blocks I’ve even used jelly, desert and cake molds from my kitchen. Anything will do to shape the soil/compost mixture into a firm block.
I’ve given away all my multi-cell trays and I now have a lot more space in my allotment shed.
Hi Ruth,
Yes, I know what you mean.
You could try Martin Crawford’s Forest Garden on Youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFbcn06h8w4
Also, Forest Gardening with Robert Hart (Complete) on Youtube:
https://youtu.be/IBQCKK4sLhgPermaculture Magazine is UK based. See https://www.permaculture.co.uk
Also, the prolific permaculture teacher Geoff Lawton was born in Britain, though now living in Australia. He has loads of stuff on Youtube. He has a very engaging style of presentation and speaks without hesitation or repetition… I’ve never heard him say, “Umm…” in any of his videos.
Rhys
I agree. There comes a time when the seedling outgrows the soil block, depending on the size of the block and the vigour of the plant. For example, the lettuce seedlings that I was proud to show earlier eventually started to show signs of distress because I didn’t get them planted out soon enough.
For tomatoes, I’ve moved 2 inch blocked seedlings on into 4 inch blocks and the plants are growing strongly.
As an experiment, I’ve sown peas directly into 4 inch blocks, 5 to block; the greater depth of soil in a 4 inch block should give the strong roots of peas plenty of space to grow.
As an allotment holder with a plot on a steep slop, at the top of a narrow path, I cannot deliver the large quantities of compost/manure that Charles uses but I’m hoping that planting out seedlings grown in 4 inch blocks will be equally successful, even if labour intensive.Hi Rhys,
Good to hear of the sweetcorn progress.
In response to your earlier photos of soil blocks in action, here is a photo of my lettuce seedlings in 2 inch blocks. It’s no longer possible to see the top of the blocks because of the growth of foliage but, where I’ve already removed some seedlings for planting, it is possible to see some roots growing out to the edge.
Peter
Rhys
Good to see that the soil blocks are working for you. It’s very informative to use pictures. I’m encouraged to take some photos of my own soil blocks.
Yesterday I planted out some of my earliest soil-block seedlings, taking Charles’ advice and covering with fleece. But it has been so cold and today we had some snow. (I’m on the south coast of East Sussex).
What I noticed is how compact the soil blocks are, when first sowed. It’s easy to produce a lot of plants in a small space. For example, you’ve got 32 sweetcorn in a space 16″ x 8″. When they’re set out in the garden, say 35 cm apart. it will need a lot of room by comparison.
Hi Don,
There’s no need to bore holes in the sides of pots when it’s possible to buy pots manufactured with holes already provided. This is an interesting article:
Peter
finnfrenz
In order to let your new no-dig beds have the best chance of success it would be better, in my opinion, to use some fresh onion sets. If you transplant the failed crop and still get poor results you won’t know whether to blame the onion sets or the new beds.
Peter
Don,
I follow the soil scientist Dr Elaine Ingham, both on Youtube and on the “Compost Tea” Yahoo! user group. She speaks a lot about the importance of getting air to the root zone, to maintain aerobic conditions for all of the soil microbes that drive soil fertility. In one post, Elaine Ingham recommended punching holes in the sides of a tomato grow bag, to let in the air. So, when I came across soil blocks, open to the air on 5 sides, I thought they must be ideal. I tried soil blocks for the first time last year and had enough success that I’m doing it again this season.
Peter
Rhys
I didn’t follow Eliot Coleman’s recipe but just used what I had to hand. I was influenced by a Youtube video from somebody who makes a lot of soil blocks. He said that Eliot Coleman was good to read but hard to follow and that it is in fact possible to use quite simple mixes for soil blocks.
So, for germinating in the smallest blocks I used Westland John Innes Seed Compost, a couple of year old, mixed with a few hands full of vermiculite. I had to Google “Klassmann compost” just now, to find out what it is. It looks as though it would be ideal and the tiny blocks won’t use much, so well worth trying.
For moving on into the bigger 2 inch blocks I used 50% garden compost (to provide microbes) and 50% mulit-purpose compost. The multi-purpose compost came from the allotment shop; I don’t remember what brand it is. To this mix I added a few trowels full of allotment sticky clay soil, to bind it all together when blocked.
I gave some of my early finished blocks a light sprinkling of “NutriMate”, which is rich in humic and fulvic acids and said to benefit soil microbes. Plants in those blocks do seem to be doing well. It will be interesting to see whether my later blocks where I forgot to add the NutriMate will be as good.
Rhys
Like you, I found something in the kitchen to store the 20 small blocks from the mini-blocker. I use aluminium foil food trays, from Asda, which are just big enough to take 20 blocks and put on the windowsill. 20 seems to be enough for me of any one seed type. I’m leaving a lot of seeds in the packet! The growing medium needs to be very wet to get good blocks. I think the water makes it slippery, so that it easily fills all the corners of the the blocker.
To set out the 2-inch blocks, which are much bigger, I use Stewart 100cm Growbag Trays, which are watertight for flood watering the blocks from the base. These trays have a flat bottom, so can also be used for mixing the medium and pressing down the blocker into when filling. They are available online from Crowders.
I’m using soil blocks this year. I already had excellent germination of tomato seeds in small blocks made with Ladbrooke’s Micro-20 block maker and have transplanted them all into 2 inch square blocks made with the Mini-4 (the one that Monty Don demonstrated). I also have lettuce, beetroot and spinach germinated directly in 2 inch blocks. As Eliot Coleman points out, there is a lot more growing medium in a square block, compared to the upside-down cone shape of a typical plug tray. It seems to me that for most plants the narrowest part of the root is at the top, where it joins on to the stalk of the plant, not the bottom, as provided by an upside-down cone. So, in theory, the square block provides more root space, which should lead to stronger seedlings. I know that Charles recommends that each person should do their own experimenting and observation. This is certainly something worth experimenting with.