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Hi, I’d be interested what people have to say about the approach I described on BRF/RCW which is popular in France and Quebec. They say it’s best to spread the green chips on the surface directly without composting.
Perhaps you could do a combination – thin layer of compost and woodchip mulch on top?
Or collect your neighbour’s green waste and cook up compost with the woodchips mixed in.
Thanks for your advice. This means that whenever we get the paperwork sorted out, we can still prepare the beds by putting 6in compost on and planting straight into that. Will make it a lot easier and should create a bit of a stir here where no dig gardening is largely unknown (Il vous faut biner, Madame!)
They are a lot of work to put in but are used a lot in arid climates, in Australia they are called wicking beds. I use the principle in all my windowboxes as I keep forgetting to water them. Also used the double bucket with success for tomatoes on the patio.
Basically you create a water reservoir and fill that up directly instead of watering on top. Then you need a “wick” to help the water go into the soil above, I used earth-filled pots suspended into the reservoir. Lastly, some sort of overflow.
Because of my forgetfulness I made a wicking base for all my starts that I plant out later, using sand instead of soil, and nestling the pots into that.
is my favourite after early potatoes, it is so sweet you wouldn’t believe it, even my kids eat it. I put in plants straight after harvesting the potatoes.
Has anyone tried beans after potatoes? Especially after potatoes under mulch, as this gets all mixed up with the compost during harvesting.
if you don’t want to eat that many potatos squash are a great easy crop to fill large spaces quickly. Winter squash like Butternut keep for months and are great presents. Its fun to try new ones too, I usually keep the seeds of pumpkins I like and have a go at growing them. Dead easy.
I did potatoes under straw the previous year and it worked a treat but this year my allotment neighbours complained about mice and I had to cover up the straw with a layer of earth (quite clayey). The potatoes weren’t great in fact there was not much growth through the soil layer on top. Any clues as to why?
I am planning a school project on pasture land being converted to veg growing.
My plan was to cut the turf of the 1m wide paths and put the sods onto the 1m wide beds, grass side down. Potatoes in a row down either side and a row of broad beans down the middle, covered with compost. At the same time, sow the path with clover. Earth up with grass clippings (or the clover) once or twice, harvest both crops before the summer holidays. Should be a cool project with a variety of seed potatoes provided by the agricultural research station nearby.
Do you think this would work?
8th October 2013 at 11:39 am in reply to: Planting squash between rows of kale/autumn cabbage #24115I usually do a three sisters bed: sweetcorn, squash and beans. Be careful not to use a too vigorous bean though my corn stalks were pulled down one year.
8th October 2013 at 11:37 am in reply to: Planting squash between rows of kale/autumn cabbage #24114I planted brussels sprouts between squash (butternut and pattypan). I have just put a covering of compost on the beds and the sprouts survived. Cannot compare to different placement unfortunately.
I have had an overwintering kale Cavallo de Nero, planted the previous autumn, which is huge, very tall, that would not have had a problem in the squash bed. Broccoli too, but not the calabrese type.
To satisfy the hunger of squash I have sometimes made a bucket sized hole, filled with compost. If you plan ahead you can even fill the hole directly with kitchen scraps and cover with earth. The worms take care of it until the roots reach down.
I get a 10l bucket of coffee grounds from the local cafe and if I don’t have time just dump them on my raised beds or at the base of trees. A short time later, scraping the coffee off a little, there are lots of compost worms. Must be good.
this is an allotment site which I have had for 3 years. This is the first time this has happened. Before I had the plot it was an allotment for more than 20 years.
The soil in the plots around mine is 20cm higher as they have added compost over the years and evidently my predecessor did not. Soil underneath is clay. I started with manure, straw and compost in raised beds four years ago in November, then added straw/compost for mulch. The bed in question did not have straw on this year. It was dug and had peat added by a friend who I lent it to for the first two years. He had mixed crops in it which seemed to do fine, though he hardly harvested. I added a layer of municipal compost for this season.
There is occasionally standing water in another part of the allotment but my raised beds are above the “waterline”. I do not think problem was damp, like I said they looked great and then suddenly wilted. This was beginning of August (I just checked the dates)
I am in Switzerland, Lake Geneva region, and the carrots for sale here have to be kept in the fridge or they will get slimy black splotches and rot, is this related?
Anyway I really want to know if sheet composting (I just cover all the debris with compost and sow into that) poses a risk of the disease returning.
Great to see you are investing in your community! I’d love to visit if I am in the area again.
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