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I have wondered too if I should consider broadforking. I did notice a bed that had sweet potatoes the previous year perform better than a neighboring bed. This made me wonder if I could get better results with my beds that are only in their second season (or if that was just a coincidence).
I am resisting adding yet another variable to control. As I observe my soil, it does not seem that compact and that the earth worms and vole/moles are creating some decent aeration of the soil (I know, voles/moles not a great thing to have in the garden, but they seem to have minimal to no damage so far).
For the American gardener/farmers (and other locations like Sweden where Richard Perkins does small scale farming with nodig principals), it does seem to be a common practice. Although, I have not seen any controlled trials (that I am aware of). Will be interesting to see if anyone has done extensive trials. I know Charles compares to dug beds, but I am not sure if that is broadforking or double digging the beds.
Charles, I have made it a practice to always leave the roots in the soil when pulling out plants that are ready to be composted. I will try to twist some of them out for convenience as you mentioned.
On this topic, are there any plants were you would not recommend leaving the roots behind? I was thinking that minimal soil disturbance and leaving roots to rot and feed the soil would be the way to go for all plants in the garden.
Here is the photo. Posting this separately because I think it was blocking my ability to post the previous response.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Hi Charles, I thought I would come back and give you an update on the compost bin system. I went with 5′ x 5′ bins for 6 bins and then at the end it has a 10′ x 5′ area that I will be using for a garden tool shed. The overall compost structure is completed (except for the tool shed). I went with fence pickets (front is cedar and the other sides are pine) for the walls. These fence pickets are sliding in an aluminum u-channel to allow to easily slide up and remove.
Here are two Instagram posts that highlight the compost bin:
- – Video of the interiors of the bins – https://www.instagram.com/p/BicygWxnzEy
– Series of pictures as we are building the structure – https://www.instagram.com/p/BleWYZHgfAs
– Most recent picture with all bins built – https://www.instagram.com/p/Bn9fG6dnI60I have also uploaded a picture of the bin.
Thanks Charles for being the inspiration for the structure and your guidance in building it. I will try to remember to post a picture after the tool shed is completed. I am going to put a concrete pad as the floor and thinking about options for the walls to allow for holding tools and have ventilation.
Ok. I plan to do this without earthing up (hilling) this year. Maybe I will run an experiment between two rows. We will see. If I do the experiment, I will report back.
Thanks Charles. That will help with my garden planning. I always wondered about this and was not sure about experiences where peppers were hotter than expected when planted near hotter varieties. One year I planted a scotch bonnet (habanero) next to a jalapeño and I thought it was the hottest jalapeño I ever grew (so it “planted a seed” in my mind that cross pollination could effect the taste of the fruit). Good to get that cleared up.
Thanks Charles! I was thinking that was so. I did go through the forum and noticed a similar topic on squash, but did see some discussion on the impact of cross pollination on corn. Is corn the only crop that needs distance between varieties?
Thanks Rhys for the additional feedback on the roof. Charles, I will be sure to take a picture when done. Looking forward to seeing you one day on your home turf or mine. For now, here is a picture of a part of the garden under the snow we just received 2 days ago. A 7 inch snow in Georgia in early December is quite rare. Cheers!
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Thanks Charles for the details. The simplicity is the attraction to the structure. With the height of the roof for cover, I like the fact you can work the compost under cover and walk in and out like it was a potting shed to store some tools that can be outside under cover.
In terms of size, I just moved into a new house that I bought explicitly for the land to vegetable and flower garden (6 acres with some woods and ~ 1.5-2 acres flat open spaces). I currently have a 50′ x 120′ initial plot I am starting no dig. I also have 8 flower garden beds throughout the 6 acre property, so I believe I should go with the 1.5m/5ft square.
Thanks again for the quick feedback. Hope to make it out your way some day for a class. I watch your events page to see if you ever make it to the southeastern US, since I am in Georgia.
- – Video of the interiors of the bins – https://www.instagram.com/p/BicygWxnzEy
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