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Hi I have only had an allotment for around a year and I decided to use weed suppressing membrain on the paths within the fruit area – what a mistake! I bought the best quality I could find at the garden centre and within weeks weeds (especially thistle) were actually coming through it. The rest including cooch grass just went around so it was really hard to get to the roots.
The rest of my plot I left as earth paths and whilst hoeing is hard work when they set in the sun ( I just do it early whilst there is still dew softening the ground) It is infinately better in the long run I think and hence I will be removing the membrain from fruit garden this winter.
put them in under plenty of maure in the fruit part of the allotment, with contingency for covering with both more manure and the old shower screen should it look necessary.
Thanks Charles
I have checked the RHS web site and they do say that you need to ‘protect against blight’. So glad I only bought £1 worth, which I will not bother to plant. RHS line is that they dont know enough about blight to understand how long it sticks around so late new potatoes must increase the risk of it remaining in the soil. So lesson learnt about impulse purchaces
Thanks for your comments Roger, they were outdoor toms. Im not yet blessed with a green house. Sadly blight has swept through the allotments and so they are no more.
I will invest in the book your other two have been my constaint companions and invaluable.
The heaps were less than half the size when they were started and I needed the space. the roots were (I think) dandylion not sure if it was alive, bind weed definately alive, dock which looked fairly dead.
There appeared to be a lot of fungal activity and Im glad I turned the heap as the edges were generally just dry with bits of bind weed trying to establish. Middle was quite wet in places so hopefully it will go even better now.
So I guess my question is how do I know that it is ok to put on the beds when most is nice and brown and crumbly?
20th July 2012 at 5:55 pm in reply to: how easy/ advisable is it to grow soft fruit from cuttings? #23265Thanks to both of you. Working in selecting plants by taste. I guess that is probably the original way that plants were selected and it is a good excuse for a natter with fellow allotment holders. I love the idea of providing them to new starters as one of the issues that we have is that most dont carry on. Of 14 new holders last October only 4 remain active and if we can do anything to help them get started and stay interested it would be good.
Hi Tracy
Firstly Im sure that you are aware parsnip seed dosent last long so I buy a new batch each year to ensure germination.Secondly there is a ‘halfway’ to growing in pots and that is to ‘chit’ them on a damp kitchen towel then when they are showing signs of growth plant out.
Also some fellow allotment holders had a similar problem and took the thinnings from other people. Im a bit sceptical as to this working but they appear to be confident that it has worked before.
I was talking to a fellow allotment holder who likes to read up on different ways of growing crops. he said that the incas apparently grow their potatoes by making a slightly raised bed surrounded by a ‘moat’ of water, this is supposed to keep the potatoes well watered and help to keep pests away. Dont know if it would work in UK climate but may be worth a try for the cost of a few seed potatoes?
Thanks Charles, got me thinking about a summer use for an old showerscreen that has been over my strawberrys…..
Thanks Charles. I have got the book but was still unclear on the benefits/ otherwise of bush vs cordon or espalier. Since maidens are significantly cheeper I think I will be trying my hand at those. Do plums work as well as Cordons?
I have had a similar problem, early crops were good but later ones have been very poor to the point that I lost one sowing to flea beatle. They also appear to be putting down a really long tap root and some do but some dont swell, so I had put it down to lack of water or maybe intermittent water. Some have also developed thick scaly skin.
I cannot be much help except to say that I have had dreadful problems with flea beatle this year and the only way I reduced damage was to remove covers so the birds could get at them.
A fellow allotment holder did suggest walking down the row flapping about a bit of sticky paper as you tap the plant but we dedided that this was probably as much therapy for the grower as cure for the flea beetle.
Thanks for that Charles a fellow allotment holder has also had a look and says nothing to worry about (yet).
Thanks for your comments on compost Im obviously just being impatient as usual. It is colapsing down so somethign must be working.
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