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My Red Baron were through in 1 week, sown in New Horizon in a propagator at 17 deg C. Bedfordshire Champion took a couple of days longer.
I have had a lot of success catching mice in a bucket trap (google it). You can lure them in with peanut butter and if the bucket is empty, (no water), you can dispose of them humanely. Don`t know if it works with voles though.
Merry Xmas
Pete
I love pallets and have been experimenting with them for years. As some will know, I rely heavily on home compost and substantial quantities of green manure. My current method is to set the bins on a course of bricks, this has 2 advantages, it helps to preserve the bottom of the pallet that is in contact with the ground and deters rats from burrowing in. I like to give a one off treatment of preservative. Its most practical to have the slats on the inside and depending on the type of pallet I make them as solid as possible, filling in the gaps by nailing pieces of wood in between the slats. This improves temperature and speed of composting and if I turn the stuff once I can have it ready in about 3 to 6 months, depending on the time of year. Old carpet completely covering the compost is a must in my opinion, usually held down by wooden boards. I would also recommend a piece of old heavy duty carpet in the bottom of the bin, this stops the compost mingling with the soil, deters vermin and makes it easier to get the stuff out because you have a base to work off. The best pallets are the small ones that are sometimes used to transport brick setts. These are close boarded so need little work and they provide a nice compact bin. My bins are 2 pallets square (ie 8 pallets), but a 4 pallet sq would be ok. Like “stringfellow” I have started using tye wraps and the bins hold together fine. I find the outer side of the bin is useful for storing all sorts of bits and pieces.
Finally don`t forget that a good mix of materials is important. I use plenty of comfrey as an accellerator.
I have had success with growing and drying lots of these “red kidney beans” and I know that you have to make sure that they are prepared correctly before use due to a toxic coating. Does this apply to any other dried beans/pulses?
Cheers
Same here Tom and last year but Fennel Finale grown alongside is fine. Romanesco must be sensitive to soil conditions probably dry weather and/or temperature (cold nights?).
Pete
I`ve had a decent size comfrey patch for years and like Charles cut just above ground level, (I don`t think it matters). I usually do 2 cuts per year, I feel any more is a bit too much for optimum production. Output from my first comfrey patch started to drop off after about 15 years so I had to move it, (I suppose that is to be expected). However; all it takes to re-establish a flourishing patch is to dig up some healthy sections of root and replant, (I like to see signs of fresh shoots on the transplants). Most of my crop is composted and the black liquid percolates down into the rest of the contents of the bin. Some leaves are used to produce liquid feed.
Cheers
Pete
I have found in my experience, 2 main reasons for failure; compost and temperature. Since I started using an electric propagator and “New Horizon general purpose” germination has been almost 100%. Room temperatures prevailing at this time of year (say 16 night and 18-19 day) are just not enough and the moist compost just allows the seeds to rot off. I set my propagator to 20. My propagator holds 30 plastic cups and has been is in constant use through April & May.
Hi zuf
I sow all my winter brassicas (except spring cauli & swedes), at the end of April because in East Yorkshire later sowings can result in insufficient growth before winter. I prefer to sow in a well prepared, sheltered seed bed on the allotment but last year moles & flea beetles caused problems. I`ve hedged my bets this year by sowing some in the ground and some in compost in 70mm x 120mm plastic cups. I never look at the dates on the packets.
I had a similar problem in my greenhouse. Healthy plants moved from house to greenhouse, after initial good growth, leaves wilted and plants became unviable. This happened again the next year so I abandoned the greenhouse for tomatoes. Some time after I moved the greenhouse to another site, inc; dismantling, thoroughly cleaning glass and frame with Jeyes Fluid and re-erecting. I have had no problems for 2 years now. I think it was a disease possibly harboured by insects or spores in the structure.
Pete
By blitzing I mean attempting to dig every piece out to a considerable depth!
Pete
I have been living with this for decades and never completely eliminated it. When I was younger, fitter (dafter), I tried to blitz it from existence. This did not have the dramatic effect I thought it should. As you say it is a minor nuisance, having little or no effect on crops. Latterly I have been pulling it out whenever I see it, with as much root as I can get or cutting it as deep as I can with a kitchen knife. In answer to your question ” when is the optimum time “, I don`t think it matters. What I can tell you is; that with persistence it is possible to virtually eliminate it and this can be achieved within a human lifespan.
Pete
Thats a very good question and one that has vexed me considerably since spring weather nowadays is so variable. On the sandy soil I garden on, if its too cold and wet I end up re-sowing, if its dry seeds will not germinate. The weather can change very quickly and optimum conditions may be rare. So last year I knocked together some frames from fence boards 240cm x 12cm. I place the frames across the bed, sow the seeds, cover with old potting compost and water in with a very fine spray. The frames offer protection from drying wind, the compost covering doesn`t blow away and watering is more effective.
Cheers
Pete
You`re dead right Stringfellow, its not an exact science, in fact calling it science is doing an immense disservice to proper scientists
)
I just happened to have some fairly dry, used potting compost and used it to bulk up the sand. It did make the mixture a bit dryer and as mentioned previously you cannot afford to have it too damp. Having said all that, I doubt that there was any more than 20% compost.