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Did you get the 77L trays Charles? I’m thinking of getting some and have contacted them about it. Do t know if I should get 77 or 40.
Did you manage to drill a hole bigger to?
Rhys did you phone the company about the other trays to see if they do a 40?
Thank for the reply my garlic are atleast 6″ already. I was thinking more down the line of lettuce, spinach, pak choi, or smaller plant along this lines.
20th February 2017 at 9:50 pm in reply to: Soil temperature for sowing turnips and forcing carrots… #38217You could try your turnips in multi sown modules to kick start them as I’m going too, I’m trying nearly all my veg like that this year other than the ones not recommended
I went with https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171717565636
In the end so I’ll see how I get on and let you all know if they are any good
What’s everyone else using 84 or 180 seed trays want to order some today and still unsure what’s best for multi sowing
I do know that you can use upto at least 25% of composted coffee grinds. I must put 40-60kg on my plot every week to 2 weeks with No problems. I must have put 100kg in my fresh horse manure bins just a few weeks ago and boy does it speed up the process.
If you do put lots on the ground watch out for crusting as it will prevent water getting to the roots so I lightly rake it in after spreading. Plus SLUGS hate it
Correct me if I’m wrong but will it won’t quickly cool down if it’s spread say 4″ thick? I was always lead to believe you need volume to hot compost just like they do in the factory site. The process need at least 3ft x 3ft of volume to start the heating process of all the bacteria.
Very much like spreading fresh manure, it won’t compost anywhere near as fast on the ground as in a pile
I would have said the same thing too as the surface area is so much larger for all the bacteria and fungi to work plus all the worms. We will still get some frosts which will also help if it’s in a layer and not a heap.
One thing I would say about using fresh horse manure is that there are a lot of seeds because they don’t have a stomach like a cow. I was always led to believe it needs hot composting to kill them. By the time you plant into I it should have been broken down enough though but not all the seeds will have been killed.
As for the growing of the onions this is my fist year doing it from seed too so can’t comment
I see that now lol was just reading the packet and I wanted to see how large these things can get. I can only try I guess as I know I’m well too early, only just came across Charles and his page. I’m reading everything I can to catch up on the way he does thing to try and reflect that onto my plot. So you grow winter onions from seed in the same way then…interesting. What’s the reason for doing that and are there any benefits or is it a time factor of not planting so much in spring
Would I be ok to plant mine out under fleece soon? They are about 2-3″ tall under a grow light. Would it be best to put them out during the day to get full sun? Still pretty cold though
I got some but can’t remember what brand they were, I just got them from the my local garden Center
Old post I know but I got compost most of the time because I never get enough material to make normal compost bins. One thing you can do is collect old coffee grinds from costa etc and use that so if the heap cools just tune and every 6″ put a bucket full of grind then a splash of water (repeat)
I set up another 3 bins just a week ago and even with the cold week we have had (highs of 5 lows of -6) it’s hasn’t affected the temp of the piles. If your ingredients are right you should be able to compost whenever
I’m growing lots of onions this year as we use so many.
I’m growing Kelsey that were sown in individual cells but I may even clump them when planting to 2 or 3 to save on space. I’m also going to grow Bedfordshire Champion, Ailsa Craig and red Barron all from seed. Do you all grow in between your onions with carrots, beets or lettuce? If so when best to plant?
Worth a try I dread to think what you have to get done in a day
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