Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
I have a lot of voles on my plot. They have been quite a problem this year nibbling the skins of squash, and eating beetroot and chard roots during late autumn. I have been using mypex and silage sheet to enlarge the plat, which they do seem to enjoy to living under. I’ve use traps with peanut butter or nutella but a lot of voles remain.
Perhaps encouraging owls with suitable nest boxes could be a way of reducing the numbers?
The barn owl trust are an interesting group and I think owls like to eat voles.
http://www.barnowltrust.org.uk/content_images/pdf/Nestboxes_for_use_on_Trees1357645529.pdf
Andy
Hello James. I’ve found that it really is vital to have compost/composted manure to spread before you start growing. Even if the underlying soil is fertile the compost gives you a pretty clean surface to plant or sow into. I’ve tried small areas just mulching with silage sheet to kill weeds and then planting in to the (clean looking!) soil. Weed control is almost impossble, especially in wet conditions and grass weeds are difficult to kill by hoeing.
Ask around and you may well find friendly farmers with manure. My experience with local farmers has been really positive and I’ve found them interested in what I’m doing. I’ve been fortunate to meet a local cattle farmer who delevers manure in exchange for vegetables.
If you start small (1/4 acre or so) you won’y need so much manure and can still grow a surprisingly large quantity of veg, then grow as demand for your produce grows.
Black silage sheet is good for killing a large area of grass, but I’d get it on as soon as possible. Spread some manure before putting the sheet on.
All the best! Andy
Any time from now is a good time to plant garlic. It’s very hardy and doesn’t need any protection over winter and produces bigger bulbs if planted in Autumn rather than spring. If you’ve got any compost/manure then you can spread some straight after planting the cloves.
I’ve had success with shallots from seed. Multi sown in modules in Feb as recommended by Charles they grow vey well. Madador F1(an excellent keeper) and Zebrune (long type) have been excellent for me this year. Seed available from Simpson’s Seeds.
Andy
Hello Val.
I have been gradually converting some old pasture land into a no-dig garden over the last few years and had some problems with wireworm. I haven’t used any treatments, or grown any crops to try to reduce them, but have found that they do become less of a problem over time. I’ve found that thay were most damaging in the first year, but were much less of a proble from the second year on.
I now grow vigorous plants – usully squash or courgette on land just converted from pasture, then use it for other crops in subsequent years. The curcubits grow so fast that the wireworm don’t seem to damage them at all.
That’s bad luck! I’ve had voles having a nibble but managed to keep the rabbits out. You could try Early Nantes carrots which have a good chaane of producing a worthwhile crop before your cucumbers go in – depending on spring weather of course! You could try beet Boltardy as well, but I’ve not tried them this early. You could also leave these crops in between your summer plantings to grow on for a bit longer before harvesting them. Maybe also rocket and spinach would be good quick growers.
Might also be worth giving your salads a chance to grow back if there is anything left.You could try http://www.kingsseedsdirect.com. I’ve just ordered some organic Sarpo mira from them. Seem to have a good range but you need to ring to check what’s available. About £1/kg for a 25kg sack + delivery. Count per kilo depends on the variety but I’m sure they will let you know average count.
Enjoy your soup Stringfellow! We’ve just had squash and shallots, roasted with a few Brussels thrown in – lovely.
I normally start sowings off on the warm sand around the 15th Feb, but have never considered the moon. Might have a look into it for this year. AndyThe shallots did very well last season, growing large in clumps of about five plants. The Zebrune are beginning to soften and sprout now, but have been delicious (especially roasted) and easy to prepare. Matador have also been excellent and look like keeping for quite a while yet. Would thoroughly recommend these varieties – both available from Simpson’s seeds.
Can’t wait to start this years sowings!
AndyI have quite a few moles in my beds this year. They have moved in from the adjoining pasture and are at least a sign of lots of worms! Plants do seem very resilient and I’ve had to tread down the parsnip and carrot beds regularly over the last few weeks but the seedlings have been largely unaffected. The main problem is the soil being brought up from below the manure mulch. Weeds are germinating and the moles are undermining my no-dig system with their digging!
I’ve decided to start trapping and have had some success. A site with some detailed instructions on trapping is
http://walcotefarm.fernhillsolutions.net/molecatching/mole_catching.htm.
I’ve been using the proctor trap recommended.
AndyI’ve just sown mine and they came up in just 3 days left on the boiler, so you should be fine. Passandra is an excellent half sized variety which has always produced well and grown healthily.
AndyHi Dragonette.
I have lots of field voles on my plot and they’ve been eating a lot of broad bean seeds this spring! Perhaps they’re hungrier than normal because of the long winter. After re-sowing, I covered the bed tightly with fleece and this seems to have kept the voles out – the plants are now growing well under the fleece.
If voles are your problem then maybe sowing in autumn is better as there is lots of other food around at this time and once established the plants are very tough.Hi compostpope.
That’s interesting about the squash. They do like as much sun as possible to ripen, especially last season! Perhaps there was also some competition between the roots of the squash and those of the raspberries as both send out roots quite far. I noticed this last year – the plants in the bed next to my squash bed were noticeably smaller on the side closest to the squash. I think the roots of the squash were growing into the edge of the adjoining bed.
I’d grow salads in a partly shady spot. They also have less roots and would probably get on better near your raspberries.
AndyI agree Charles. ‘Rules’ (especially those that do not necessarily work) are made to be broken. In life and in growing. No Dig growing is an excellent example.