Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Further to the several years of life of this thread, I wish to ask if any of you have thought to start indoors some seeds, allowing the resultant plants to luxuriate as house plants and then strike cuttings, which root readily in water, hence producing cropping plants which may already be well forward in flowering. Have you done this, did it work?
Another well-proven method is to lift a dozen or so leeks and simply plonk them in a bucket with the soil attached, and take them home. This will hold them from withering up until used.
I think you must work by events. Blight is said not to be persistant, arriving from afar in rain/humid conditions. Other ‘pests’ might be spidermite and fungal. Maybe a second tunnel would give you more scope……
Agree with Stringfellow, they all like a bit of cash!! Farmers are ‘at home’ at meal times 8-1pm-5
Farmers only work “by the load”, probably
6 cu mtrs (approx).Ask to see the trailer to get an idea of volume. This may be more than you need but it will rot down for next year. Possibly share with a neighbour. £40 may be generous, but distance is the key. Give the tractor driver a beer or 4. Handy contact for other inputs, cut-your-own pea & bean sticks, straw, used baler twine etc.My method would be to mix the grass seed into a bucket of compost, moisten and stand under cover for 2-3 days*. Broadcast the mixture evenly and then apply 12mm of compost and firm evenly ,using a board((900x75x12) on a broom handle to tamp down tightly.Best done in September,or March.Keep watered until established. Trim lightly at about 6weeks-75mm tall,not shorter than 40mm.
* This is to start the germination process, as the seed changes, it becomes less paletable to birds(Think malt barley..)Another good insect support plant, especially bees, is alfalfa (lucerne) It also roots deeply and aids drainage and mineral migration. Can be grown from “sprouting” seed and grown on. May be perennial in many areas ( I’m NE Hampshire) Can be ‘topped’ to add to composting materials, or left to self seed .May become invasive!
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder! I’ve got some that match.
You have a parsnip, ugly maybe, that tastes as a parsnip should. It is going to be cut before cooking?, surely.
Roasting is only one method of cooking these. Washed, scraped, boiled ,mashed, buttered and peppered. Result!
Saute-ed in milk gives another dimension.
My suspicion is that you transplanted these at too late a stage? Am I correct?
Better results may occur if you:
Sow fresh seed(perhaps from Realseeds.co.uk), in situ, later in the season*.Plant thinly at 50mm centres, shallow and cover with a plank.Check after 14 days, remove. Select strongest seedling, thinning others, to space at 150mm. Keep moist(by mulching)Weed as required.Do not crowd- in with other crops.
*May is not too late!!
Please report.Your slugs will not have a discerning palate, so you may be able to “collect” slops from your local pub. I understand that you need only to provide a flavoursome solution, sugary will do. Also a concoction of stale bread and brown sugar soup, but discard when stinky!They will die ,smiling!
My view is that you might do better to chip it and use the material as path cover, or sub-divide raised beds with ‘skip-ways’.It can be expected to be drawn on to the beds in 2-3 years
I have done this with freely donated tree surgeons chippings and apart from free draining slug barriers, it has produced some stunning fungi:presumed non-edible until qualified opinion will sample!!In my understanding of the benefits of using organic matter to feed your soil, it’s the ability to build up the natural processes that allow your plants to access the micro-nutrients/trace elements/minerals that occur in the cycle of life. If the ingredients (organic matter as manure and/or composts) are supplied, once the correct balance of “life” is achieved in soil, there should be no great need to add “artificial” supplies. Whether a particular soil is correct for a given crop requirement is an area for life long development….
It would be expected that the seeds you have planted, will germinate in 14 -21 days and ideally grow to 15cm or so, slowing as the days reduce and cool. They will then become semi-dormant and may benefit from cloche cover, to reduce wind damage and the effects of heavy rainfall. Slug control is recommended. Once Spring establishes, they will hopefully grow away and flower to co-incide with early pollinators, in April
If they do not emerge within the timescale suggested, I would dig a few up to discover their condition, preparing to start replacements in pots to plant out in February. Mice and voles can also explain no-shows!
Personally, I wait to pursue the fall back option, my site is exposed to wind and voles.For the top, you need an accomplice and a length of stockinette roll(Mutton cloth) from a janitorial supply depot. Cut off enough to give you sufficient length to reach across from side to side and simply pull back and forth as if sawing.
Suggest you paint the tank to exclude light, this will inhibit green algae. To paint the outside with black bitumen (Aquaseal 5, 2 coats). Just mask off a strip “gauge” on the north side to see contents. A filter on the downspout ,such as a surplus sock, to trap debris.The use of non-chlorinated water should prove to be advantageous, so long as the supply is dependable.
According to my reading up upon the background, drugs used to treat animals for parasitic worms are likely to kill unrelated species of worms, which are totally different in almost every aspect.It seems the drugs will break down over (indeterminate*) time and are in such small concentrations to not become a threat. Best advice would seem to be:
Stack seperately. Turn at intervals. Observe brandling activity. When they appear to have reached all parts of the heap ,and to still being alive(!), then allow them to complete and they will withdraw. generally compost would then be allowed to ‘mature’ under a cover (till the woodlice move in!, Charles may have other criteria?)
*2-3 years?In support of your use of this British farmed oil, it will protect your woodwork ,particularly if you can coat all surfaces and re-treat when it no longer ‘duck backs’ rainfall.
You will find that raw oil is best, Boiled has the addition of acids and driers which are less natural.
If you locate a Horse food supplier,such as Mole Valley Farmers , you can get ‘food grade’ raw linseed oil for horse rations in 2.5 & 5litre cans and they should not charge you any VAT. This will assist your budget.