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Mulch, mulch, mulch again.
Without evidence of a problem why would one seek to pre-empt a notional problem? If one observes an issue, then certainly evolve a method to overcome that,within the ethos of ones regime.
I do not see pools of standing water on compost, my carrots and parsnips reach sufficient depths, sometimes requiring easing to harvest. Planting holes are easily created with dibber or trowel.Producing at least an adequate supply for household consumption has not proved difficult. I shall not be fixing anything till its broke!Some attention to identifying the weed species will help. Firstly, are they perennial, such as couch grass, brambles ,plants that are spreading in from the borders. Are they chance arrivals of wind blown seeds from elsewhere? Deeply rooted docks or dandelions?
Seeds will need to find fine material to establish.Perhaps raking to increase the voids, with the introduction /evening of gravel will help.
Flame treatment would be my choice, you need only to raise the sap temperature towards boiling point to destroy soft plants, not necessary to burn them away, although its quite satisfying to totally blitz the more persistant!How about CLIMBING plants planted at the bottom?
In Nort east Hampshire (UK), they go anticlockwise if viewed from above……, if that helps.
“Jan I am wondering if there are access problems.
Since the spam attack, passwords have had to change and I think they have either gor lost or may be not working for some reason.
I am worried that there are no posts in the last 4 days.”Charles,
it seems that the login now requires a positive re-assertion regarding agreement to terms, previously one could stay ‘logged in’
Not a problem but not immediately obvious when it dumps one out.
CleansweepPerhaps they are heading to meet in the middle?
Try to find out from the Allotment secretary what* was applied and when. Perhaps ask to see the container, which will give information regarding replanting. Do all the plants appear to be dead?.
Hopefully, the treatment done was to allow use of the plot this year.I would be inclined to plant up ,depending on the replies you receive, as if all was good.You will soon see if things survive!
Perhaps proceed, working towards no dig from the coming Autumn, snatching a crop this year if you can.
*Feel free to ask further, from here or the manufacturers website once you know what was used.
Good Luck
CleansweepRhys,
Those boxes are available,(for free!) from fishmongers,fish fryers and supermarkets everywhere. Smaller,but still deep ,from restaurants and sundry broccoli vendorsWell you could but….
I wouldn’t!
because:
in my case ground is limited for cultivation and priorities exceed blackberries. There are many acres of ‘wild’ blackberry brambles within a mile.
If giving up growing space and having the need to contain/protect/nurture/harvest I would be tempted to grow a cultivated hybrid or two for better fruit.
Your neighbours will think your letting it ‘go to rack ‘n ruin’; and probably not resist’just pickin a few’ole berries…I think you’ve answered your own question really, 10 years with bountiful crops, so why worry?
I learnt on Greensand, azahlia ground ,and lime was biennially added to the vegetable area.Personally I dont lime generally my London Clay, just feed it. However, in attempting to avoid club root, lime is watered in as I plant out brassicas, there being no other treatment.
In recent years, having ‘inherited’ 50kg of calcified seaweed from an elderly friend-( she couldn’t take it with her!!), I use this instead , expecting that the other minerals present may be useful.
CleansweepI find this method works.
Sow seeds in week 13 (APRIL4Th) in module trays but thickly. Grow on for 6 weeks then prick out into a deep(6″) compost filled box outside, 1″ apart, in rows 4″ apart.Make the holes with a pencil.
Water regularly and feed once or twice with compost ‘tea’ .In late June/early July, after broad beans or early spuds, apply 1″ compost, water heavily and plant out (as ‘pencils’) into holes made with 4 prong digging fork, using every other hole. Water again. Rows 1 fork width apart (9″).Ho hum! No holidays!!
Saturated capillary matting or newspapers /cardboard under all trays and pots should hold enough for 4 days. Last year, a pair of scrap lined curtains held out for a full week.Underlay all with a sheet of polythene as a membrane.Have you got any more of the seeds? Try soaking for a few hours, then place in a poly bag in the airing cupboard for a few days, checking twice a day. Once they show signs of sprouting, gently plant and return to the cupboard. Check twice a day.Once cotyledons visible above surface, expose to light in warm (24 hr above 15deg C) window cill location.
Agree with John, you have a dilemma!
Thoughts revolve around the depth at which the fabric is at, in absolute terms and whether you pierced the fabric to plant. The size and variety of plant would also restrict your options.
Clearly, if the plant is such that it would root through the fabric, without a piercing, it will be compromised. The fabric will not degrade in most circumstancees.
If you pierced it to plant, then you might be able to join up the holes with a bladed tool and withdraw the fabric in ‘ribbons’.
If you have planted shallow rooting crops,such as salads, then you may be able to abandon the fabric, building up the depth over years. It will remain a pain.
I have one bed covered in mypex(which was the first one laid down before I discovered no-dig) which has strawberries planted through it. They are due to be replaced after this season. An experimental attempt to strip out 1 row last autumn resulted in being able to pluck out a row rooted for 3 years, as if it was a very tufted carpet ! The fabric remained almost intact.